Bikepacking Bohol 2016

Bohol… the island beckons with its famed chocolate hills, the tarsiers, river cruise, beaches, old churches and more. Just two island hops away from Luzon Island and our destination for the eight edition of the annual “Lakbay Bisekleta” (bike tour). The route was an island hopping bike loop from and to Sorsogon that traversed Samar, Leyte, Bohol, Panglao, Cebu and Masbate Islands, Philippines on the summer of 2016, and turned out to be 796 kilometers and took 8 days.

Teacher Kareen and Nurse Nat, on the road.

We love to travel, and we prefer to do it by bike – self-propelled and unsupported. Travelling by bike means being more intimate with the place: the smell of somebody’s breakfast wafting on the road, rows of kids giving high five, dogs giving chase, elders asking if we are getting paid for all the effort, the roadside halo-halo and all-natural fruit shakes, slow changing land and seascapes… as well as the heat, dust, rain and punishing ascents. We have physically trained and conditioned ourselves for the past two months with 100 to 200+ km weekend routes and were ready to tackle the summer heat and the ass-busting dawn to dusk rides.

The typical Filipino bikepacker is a minimalist. He/she is usually a weekend warrior with a job to go back to, not the type that leaves everything behind to go for extended road trips. Having no camping equipment means depending on budget hotels and turo-turos (small roadside restaurants) for rest and sustenance. Light and fast. My bike bags weigh in at about 8 kilograms of personal and biking stuff which is good for nine days.

DAY 1, April 2, Saturday, Irosin, Sorsogon to Catbalogan City, Samar

It is good news that a fast craft (FastCat operated by Montenegro Shipping) is now servicing the Matnog-San Isidro ferry route with regular schedules. This means less sea travel time to Samar, less distance to travel overland (San Isidro is further south from Allen by about 18 km) and a predictable departure time. So at 0415, Irosin riders were up and cycling to Matnog Port to meet up with Matnog and Bulan riders and catch the 0600 fast craft. Well, the fast craft was newer by several decades compared to the “veteran” ferries on this port, but late to depart by an hour. But it was fast. We arrived in San Isidro port in an hour, rode to the town, had breakfast and was on the saddle by 0815.

First boat ride, Matnog to San Isidro, FastCat, departs 0600

The ascent and rolling hills of Palanit, San Isidro came abruptly without the benefit of a warm-up. And it was a rolling coastal road all the way to Calbayog City where we had lunch and a brief rest stop, then off to Gandara to meet up with Cyrk and Nat who had pedaled from Allen earlier. Afternoon snacks are street foods at a roadside in Gandara. I have been stopping in this town for nine years now and observed that the price of food and commodities here is the highest along this route. A banana about 80 mm long costs P 5! The mark-up for bottled water, sports drink and even lomi is also quite high.

Visor, sunglasses and face scarf for the hot summer sun, near Calbayog City.

Rider's perspective, typical road scene, at Sta. Margarita.

After San Jorge are undulating hills, ups and downs, all the way up to Catbalogan City which we reached by 1700. We visited Bating of SAMBA which was our contact person in this city. Bating suffered a mild stroke but was now on his way to recovery. Dinner, a few drinks and well deserved rest came after.

Distance 151 km, moving time 8:30 hours, average speed 17.8 km/hour

DAY 2, April 3, Sunday, Catbalogan City to Abuyog, Leyte

Nice breakfast of rice and “tinola” tuna for P 50 near the Samar National HS. Departed Catbalogan City at 0615 with a long uphill ride right outside the city center, and another one thereafter before Buray, Palanas. At Buray, we decided to have another round of breakfast as the next agreeable restaurant for lunch stop is about 80 km away near San Juanico Bridge. From Palanas to Calbiga is a relatively flat road with a big hump at Hinabangan. We rested at Calbiga and stocked up on food and water for the hot, long and winding climb at Pinabacdao (where we had one watermelon stop) and the equally hot and long flat road to Sta. Rita. Lunch was at Sta. Rita (near San Juanico Bridge) where we arrived at about 1230.

Hill after Catbalogan City

Hill after Calbiga, and watermelons

Reaching San Juanico Bridge meant we have traversed the third largest island in the Philippines. One down, four islands to go. Picture, picture… of course. About 15 km from the bridge is a detour to the center of Tacloban City, a tranquil traffic-free city on a Sunday with little evidence of Yolanda two years ago, thence to Palo for a rest stop. It was past 1600 and we have 50 km more to pedal from Palo to Abuyog. To Abuyog or to the nearest lodging house? The group decided to stick with the itinerary, gulped down kwek-kweks and mango shakes near Palo WWII memorial, then proceeded to ride the flat road to Abuyog in the late afternoon sun. Nearing Abuyog, it was dark, we were tired, and hungry again… and out of the dark there materialized an Andok’s eatery at the roadside! Fats, proteins and carbohydrates, please.

San Juanico Bridge, longest bridge in the Philippines...

... connecting Samar and Leyte Island.

M/V Eva Jocelyn was washed ashore by Typhoon Yolanda, now a memorial for the thousands of lives lost in the tragedy.

Memorial for the WWII Gen. McArthur Landing Site in Palo, Leyte

Just 2 km from the Andok's at the diversion road to Abuyog is a very good hotel offering very affordable overnight rates. Florina Country Lodge at Abuyog is highly recommended where for P 300 per person you get new clean AC rooms (with key card entry). Clean sheets, soft pillows and mattress equals a good night sleep.

When in Abuyog, Leyte, stay at Florina Country Lodge

Distance 169 km, moving time 9:10 hours, average speed 18.4 km/hour

DAY 3, April 4, Monday, Abuyog to Bato, Leyte

We checked out of the lodge at 0630, had breakfast and started out the third day on the road. About 10 km from Abuyog is a long, winding ascent with steep sections, a descent and another ascent, leading to the Sogod-Baybay junction. The road to the right takes you to Baybay and Bato, to the left is Sogod and Bato – equal distance to Bato. We took the Sogod route which would pass by the tallest bridge in the Philippines – Agas-agas Bridge. 

Sir Linzo, on a long ascent from Abuyog to Mahaplag

Both roads lead to Bato, and equidistant, but to the left ...

After a fast downhill ride to Mahaplag, the road went up again on a long ascent to Southern Leyte, Agas-agas Bridge, and beyond topping out at about 470 meters. It was hot, slow ride with no benefit of cooling effect of moving air, in a remote mountain road. It was cool at the shade but burning in the tarmac. Communal faucets and flowing water on the roadside are welcome relief in cooling down our bodies (by wetting our heads, arms and backs). Agas-agas bridge was reached at about 1030 and we rested and carbo-loaded and hydrated at a small canteen near the visitor’s center (where banana’s are P 1 each). 

... will take you to Agas-agas Bridge...

... the tallest bridge in the Philippines.

  

Hope to see more of this

After Agas-agas is a brief uphill and the insanely long downhill ride to Sogod. Right at the Liloan-Sogod junction before the river is a good restaurant where we had lunch. After lunch is a nap break at a forested roadside clearing. I carried a compact hammock which I now consider as a must-bring item - just tie to tree, support with bikes if needed, then nap. 

When thirsty, drink. When hungry, eat. When tired, rest.

The road met up with Sogod Bay at Sogod town, and we turned right for Bato at the west coast. It was a pleasant flat road down the coast of Sogod Bay up to the town of Bontoc where we turned west and the road undulated again into rolling hills. We reached the town of Bato at about 1630 and stayed at a lodge just right outside the port. Bato port is the preferred transit point between the Leyte and Bohol. A Roro (roll on-roll off) ferry departs at 0900 and pump boats departs as early as 0700 for Ubay at the northeast coast of Bohol.

There is the Bato Baywalk, with playground, benches, open air sea food grill, live acoustic music, beer, good vibes, just at the waterfront beside the port. A full sized grilled squid goes for P 40. 

Bato Bay Walk with live music, grilled seafoods and beer... wished every coastal town in Sorsogon would have a place like this.

Distance 92 km, moving time 5:43 hours, average speed 16 km/hour

DAY 4, April 5, Tuesday, Ubay, Bohol to Carmen (via Chocolate Hills)

Since the departure of the pump boat is earlier and we were also informed that it is faster than the Roro by almost an hour, we chose to ride the small pump boat. The boat’s seats were wooden planks, it was cramped, noisy, but for us a novelty.  Took us 2.5 hours to cross the calm sea, had a merienda near the port of Ubay and pedaled off to Carmen by 10:30AM. 

Second boat ride, Bato to Ubay, Star Sirius Sealiner, departs 0700

Ubay to Carmen 

We opted for the southwestern route via Alicia to Carmen and the road was decently paved undulating like a lazy sine wave, the vegetation sparse (reminds me of Masbate), habitations dispersed, and very friendly people. At Alicia we turned east to Pilar, with short ascents, lunch in a really small carenderia, a short nap, passed by Pilar Lake evidently below its normal water level, to Sierra Bullones, and east to Carmen. It was nearing sunset when we reached Carmen, passed Carmen town, turned left, ascended one the hill, hiked up the view deck and was rewarded with the stunning view of a very unusual geologic formation called the Chocolate Hills of Bohol. Sulit ang lahat ng pagod!

Sorsogon to Chocolate Hills, Bohol is 4 days by bike and boat

Sorsogon cycloholics (left to right): Ed (standing), Cyrk, Darwin, Tyrone, Nat, Dominic, Bito, Linzo, Jay, Kareen, Paye 

Ed of Matnog, 64 and can keep up with the pace at anytime and any terrain.

We biked backed to the town center of Carmen and checked in at the Marbezen Inn (highly recommended) with dormitory-type fan rooms (as low as P 150 each) and a restaurant.

Distance 67 km, moving time 3:51 hours, average speed 17.4 km/hour

DAY 5, April 6, Wednesday, Carmen to Alona Beach, Panglao

Took off at 6:15AM from Carmen after a heavy breakfast, slow pacing in a cool Bohol morning, flat roads, and the 12-person team is at high spirits. The landscape vegetation gets thicker and greener down south to Loboc which climaxed at Bilar Eco Park with its very very dense man made forest right at the roadside. Literally cool and impressive forest in a long downhill ride. After that, we glimpsed at the Loboc River which was indeed very very clear and clean… walang basura. Puede naman pala ganito ang ilog.

Another boat, on dry land

Bilar Eco Park, a dense man-made forest before Loboc, literally cool!

Headed straight to the Loboc River Cruise pavilion, were the first in line for the cruise, and were not disappointed. A natural resource, with community-based and operated tourism package, and properly regulated and supported by local and national government. Galing!  

Third boat ride, Loboc River Cruise, panalo ito!

Unlimited native foods during the river cruise, all-in at P 450

"Tinikling" along the very clean river of Loboc, tourists and the community, panalo!

After the cruise with a hearty lunch, we were drowsy in hot midday sun and so we napped/rested near the Loboc church (under the flyover to nowhere). And then off to see tarsiers to Corella. At Corella is a tarsier sanctuary maintained by Sir Carlito and for a token fee anybody can see tiny sleepy Tarsius Carlitos being raised for dispersion to their adjoining original habitat.

The nocturnal tarsier, lethargic in the hot El Nino summer afternoon

Bohol earthquake aftermath, the old churches of Baclayon and Loboc

At a junction in Corella, we turned left (south) via a rural but paved road, visited Baclayon church, joined up with the Tagbilaran East Road and rode into Panglao Island. Alona beach… rapidly growing tourism industry, site planning and support infrastructure is lacking, crowded bancas at sea front, water scarcity in hotels … but lively nightlife, jump-off to more pristine destinations. We had a hard time looking for a place to sleep.

Sunset at Alona White Beach of Panglao

My summer 2016 road trip, at the farthest point.

Panglao beach night scene

Distance 92 km, moving time 5:31 hours, average speed 17.4 km/hour. This is the southernmost point of our road trip, the rest of the journey is towards home. Here is the route map: 

DAY 6, April 7, Thursday, Panglao to Tagbilaran City Port - Cebu City Rest Day

From Alona Beach, Panglao we rode to Tagbilaran City and rode the 1000 FastCraft to Cebu City. After 2 hours, we landed in the 5th island of our bike trip – Cebu. Just outside the port is the Magellan’s Cross where we loitered around and had lunch. Just across is the Sampaguita Suites… nice affordable AC rooms.

Bohol is an exceptional island that a two-day bike tour was found lacking

Fourth boat ride, Tagbilaran to Cebu City, Ocean Fast Ferries

Approaching Cebu

Magellan's Cross shrine, near the City Hall

Lechon Cebu + Johnny Walker Red Label

Today is rest day devoted to laundry, visits to bike shops for minor purchases, seeing a movie, Lechon Cebu, getting drunk and carboloading.

Distance 23 km, moving time 1:09 hours, average speed 20 km/hour

DAY 7, April 8, Friday, Cebu City to Bogo City

The route back to Luzon island is via the northern tip of Cebu and across Masbate. Left Cebu at 0700, waded in the heavy urban traffic, and followed the coastal road up to Liloan. From Liloan to Carmen to Sogon is the picturesque coast of eastern Cebu seaboard. Traffic was light, the terrain is mostly flat, riders were all well rested and so the pace speeded up. Slowdown past Sogod when the terrain posed some challenging climb and the summer sun shone with all its glory. 

Leaving Cebu City

Nice landmark sign of Liloan, Cebu

12 riders, a happy crowd, on the northeastern coastal road of Cebu island

What goes up, comes down and it was downhill to the town of Bogo. A port outside the town have ferries that services the Cataingan, Masbate - Bogo, Cebu route, leaving at midnight. Shower, dinner, drinks at Bogo port, then sleep at the bunk beds of the old ferry.

Polambato Port, Bogo City

Fifth boat ride, Bogo City to Cataingan, M/V Maria Helena, departs 2400

Distance 106 km, moving time 5:38 hours, average speed 18.8 km/hour

DAY 8, April 9, Saturday, Cataingan, Masbate to Masbate City – Bulan to Irosin, Sorsogon

The ferry ride took six hours! And I slept the whole six hours, awakening a few times due to cold winds blowing from the sea. At the Cataingan Port, we had breakfast and rode, fast. We hope to catch the pumpboat leaving at 1230 for Ticao Island and then to Luzon and so the pacing was fast in the poorly asphalted road and rolling terrain of southeastern Masbate. Arriving at Masbate City at noon, we relaxed and had lunch as a local friend had already arranged for a "special trip" pump boat direct to Bulan, Sorsogon.

Last day of the ride starts out from Cataingan Port, Masbate...

...to Masbate City Port...

Two Irosin riders met us up at Masbate port, and 14 of us plus bikes, managed to fit in a really small pump boat, for a 3 hour ride to Bulan. If it was a windy or cloudy or rainy day, I would never board that boat. By about 1600, we were back in Luzon, rode the remaining 21 km to Irosin and was back home!

... then the sixth boat road, crowded "special trip" on a really small pumpboat...

... back to island of Luzon.

Distance 96 km, moving time 5 hours, average speed 19.2 km/hour

TRAVEL NOTES:

Here are some details of expenses (per person):

1. For ferry/pump boat fees including terminal fee, fare and bike freight is a total of P 2,223

Matnog to San Isidro P 230, Bato to Ubay 330, Tagbilaran City to Cebu City P 588, Bogo City to Cataingan P 575, Masbate City to Bulan P 500

2. For lodging expense (group room), P 1,675

Catbalogan Fame Hotel P 200, Abuyog Florina Country Lodge P 300, Lodge near Bato Port P 300, Carmen Marbezen Inn P 150, Panglao Walk-in Haven P 300, Cebu City Sampaguita Suites P 425

3. Food and hydration expense is pegged at P300 per day or P 2,400

The expenses for the ride was at least P6,298 per person (exclusive of entrance fees, drinks, pasalubong, souvenirs, city day tours and others). An average of P 788 budget per day, not bad, we got some serious work-out while travelling to impressive places we have never been.

(Photo credits: Kareen Mercado, Natalie Grace Gestre, Cyrk Lim and Tyrone Otilano)

By Noel Mercado II