Bicycle Touring Philippines: Mt. Kinabalu Climb 2016

I have always wanted to climb this mountain – Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain in Southeast Asia at 4,095 meters ASL. But back then, there were no budget-promo airline from Manila to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia and I had little disposable money for travel back then. But nowadays, Manila to KK airfare is very affordable and me and my wife can spare some travel funds for some serious out of the country adventure travel. So for our 20^th wedding anniversary last February 10, I booked a flight to KK and a Mt. Kinabalu 2D1N tour package with via Ferrata.

DAY 1, February 10

The climb starts at the Park HQ (1,563 MASL) at the southern boundary of Kinabalu Park where climbers has to register and meet their mountain guides. We were on a tour package arranged by Amazing Borneo so our handlers processed all the permits, guides, food, lodging and all – including transfers to and from KK and via ferrata guides. After securing the permits, a guide (named Mike) and our packed lunch, we were transferred to the Timpohon Gate about 5.5 km away (1,866 MASL) where the trail starts. The challenge for the day is a 6 km hike with an elevation gain of 1,424 meters.

We started out from Timpohon Gate at 0915 in the midst of chilly and misty Borneo rainforest. After a short descent right after the gate, the trail is ascending all the way up to the summit. There are markers every 0.5 km and resting huts (with toilets that flush) every 1 km or so. The well-maintained trail is a mix of earth (reinforced with wooden planks in critical slopes to prevent erosion), boulders and wooden staircase with railings - you will never get lost here (and there is the mandatory 2:1 climber to guide ratio).

Kinabalu Park HQ

Timpohon Gate

Hundreds of climbers from all over the world are on the way up or down this mountain every day. Along the way, we were overtaken by numerous porters with 30 or 40 kg loads of lettuce, onions, LPG tanks, ropes, wood planks and a variety of supplies. Layang-Layang Hut, the fifth resting hut near the 4 km marker at 2,745 MASL, was the lunch stop which we reached at 1200. At this elevation, the vegetation transitions into mossy forest and the trees are getting more stunted.

Porters

Layang-Layang hut

Carnivorous plants

After Layang-Layang, the scenery changed as we caught our first glimpse of the Kinabalu granite face to the north and the lesser Borneo mountains to the south. The rock slide during the June 2015 earthquake is evident in the rock face as freshly exposed white rock surface in contrast to the weathered gray rock. Climbing at this elevation takes an extra effort as the air is significantly thinner. I have to pause and rest every five or ten steps to catch my breath.

Ascent all the way to the top

Colors are getting intense...

... and surreal.

The Kinabalu Granite... THE ROCK!

The sight of Laban Rata and other lodging houses in a small plain where the forest and exposed granite meet is a relief for weary climbers. The clearing is a view deck, a helipad, a volleyball court, has seven rest house/hostel/huts, and is the staging point for the summit assault. The huts offer shelter, bunk beds with sleeping bags and food, thus climbers need not bother to bring tents and stoves. Our hostel is the Pendant Hut where we arrived at 1440 at an elevation of 3,290 MASL.

Laban Rata and Pendant Hut

Plenty of stairs in this mountain

The summit to be assaulted

Having a shower is out of the question as the water is near freezing. I also have a slight headache from the altitude but Tylenol took care of it. The accommodation is dormitory type with double deck beds with warm sleeping bags. By 1530, climbers doing the via Ferrata were given an orientation by Mountain Torq guides. Via Ferrata means “iron road” and is a popular side trip to Mt. Kinabalu climb. It involves traversing the rock face via fixed cables and ladders.

Early buffet dinner was served at Laban Rata, an alpine-style lodge offering good food with a stunning sunset view. Lights out at 2000 and I had little sleep having weird dreams and irrational trains of thoughts – maybe because the high altitude.

Buffet dinner in Laban Rata. Good food!

Sunset panorama of Mt.Kinabalu

DAY 2, February 11

Up by 0100 for the summit assault, 2.5 km ahead and 805 meters above. After a light breakfast, we were out of the hut in the cold and dark morning and started the trek at 0230. We were lucky as it did not rain nor got too cloudy during the whole trip. The trail started with stairs at the dwarf forest and transitioned into bare rock as we reached the last resting hut (and checkpoint, as climbers are required to present climb IDs). The going was slow… five steps up, pause, breath, five steps… under the stars and caressed by the cold mountain breeze. We were at Low’s Peak by about 0530 and waited as the early morning light slowly dissipated the darkness and showed the majestic panorama of the summit.

Waiting for the sun

The (new) marker at the summit

South peak

The summit was narrow and so climbers have to take turns in getting their pictures at the summit marker. As soon as it was full daylight, we proceeded to descend to catch our via Ferrata guide. What a relief, going down. Small easy steps on the granite face of the mountain with the Borneo island wrapped in clouds down below.

Kinabalu plateau

Km 8 marker, going down

At Sayat-Sayat hut (the checkpoint), we were met by our via Ferrate guide, went to the starting point, donned our harnesses and helmets, clipped ourselves to the fixed cable and traversed near vertical to vertical rock face. It was an exhausting side trip after the summit assault, but nevertheless exhilarating.

2-cable bridge

Vertical rock face with fixed ladders

The huts as seen from the via Ferrata route

After via Ferrata, we descended to Pendant Hut, rested for a few minutes, packed our gears, had a late breakfast and checked out at 1130. Too bad for us, Asians, the hut provided American breakfast when our stomach is screaming for a rice meal. And so we descended slowly, getting hungrier as the elevation dropped. My wife is having difficult time in going down, knees already shaking and stomach grumbling. We reached the Timpohon Gata at 1630 where an Amazing Borneo van transferred us to the Park HQ. At the Park HQ, we collected our well-deserved certificates, our packed lunch and after which we were transferred to our KK hotel 2 hours away.

Stairs and fixed rope in inclined rock face

Bring walking sticks, two walking sticks.

Great climb!

NOTES

We booked the climb package with Amazing Borneo online and only a month before the climb dates. I have the impression that the package is a little bit expensive compared to backpacking all the way to Park HQ. But the convenience of having picked-up and dropped-off at your hotel, pre-arranged meals and guides and lodging, pre-applied climbing permits and all the smooth handling by Amazing Borneo personnel was indeed – amazing. Recommended and worth the money.

Of course we did took the opportunity of taking a walking tour of Kota Kinabalu! Our hotel was The Crown Borneo Hotel which is a great hotel with rooms of about P1,100 per day – great value for money. It was near stores and restaurants (with P 60 to 100 meals) and near the KK airport. The downside is that it is about 4 km from downtown area. Taxis are no problem with fares ranging from P 200 to P 300 and so we visited downtown KK on the day before and the day after the climb.