Bikepacking Mt. Pulag and Sagada 2013

This post recounts the mountain biking, hiking and camping trip to Mt. Pulag, Kabayan, Benguet and Sagada, Mt. Province in the Cordillera mountain ranges of the Philippines last March (Holy Week) 2013 by a group of cycling enthusiasts from Sorsogon.

The original plan was for an unsupported MTB traverse of the Cordillera east to west from Aritao, N. Viscaya to Candon City, Ilocos via Mt. Pulag, Sagada and Tirad Pass in one week, which proved to be quite strenuous and we had to cut short the trip in Sagada. This would be our fourth bike trip to the Cordilleras and we are familiar with the terrain. But this trip will combine trekking and biking so aside from the usual cross-country biking gears we carry, we have to load up camping gears as well. We usually carry gears on backpacks lashed to a bike rack (load limit 10 kg) mounted on the seat post and additional loads are mounted to the front of the handlebars – no panniers, yet

To Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya, March 22-23

As we are all from Sorsogon, we have to travel 12 hours by bus to Manila. MTBs usually fit in the estribo of a regular aircon bus if you unmount the front wheels. Just secure the bike with bungee cords to prevent movement during travel and provide cushioning to minimize scratches.  The usual freight charge for MTBs is P 100-150.

Kareen and I arrived at Manila a day earlier for a get together of college friends, a party that lasted until 4AM.  Ed from Matnog and Tyron from Bulan arrived March 23 and we rode a 1 PM Victory Bus that arrived 7PM at Aritao. After dinner, we literally roamed the town of Aritao in the dark asking around and looking for a hotel or any place to sleep. There was none, and the nearest was in Bambang 13 km away. A local advised us to go to the local police station and see if we can be accommodated. After explaining our intent and predicament to the officer on duty, the PNP let us have a vacant office in their station as our sleeping quarters for the night.  

College friends I have not seen for quite some time

The Human Rights Office-PNP Aritao was our inn for the night 

Day 1, Aritao to DENR Office, Bokod, Benguet, March 24

Our stay at the PNP station was very comfortable and the PNP Chief was himself a biker. We started pedaling from Aritao (elevation 385 meters above sea level) at 6AM after a quick cup of instant coffee (it is our habit to bike for about 1 to 2 hours in the morning before having a heavy breakfast). The Benguet-N. Vizcaya Road (concreted and connects to Baguio City) started out deceivingly flat for a few kilometers and started climbing until reaching 660 meters and it was a downhill ride to a river in Pingkian 15 km from Aritao. From there, it was again steady climb to Kayapa (where we had breakfast) and further up to 1,560 meters in elevation into the province of Benguet.

Security was not an issue during our stay in Aritao

First ascent of the trip

The road to Kayapa, N. Vizcaya

Getting by with a little help from a friend

A well preserved pine forest between Kayapa and Bokod

After a long downhill, we had our very late lunch at the Bokod junction, elevation 844 meters. To the north is Kabayan and Bokod, Benguet and to the west is Ambuklao Dam and Baguio City. It was already 5PM when we started out to the DENR office 8 km away. At the town of Bokod, we bought fuel for the stove and supplies for dinner and breakfast. After Bokod the road increasingly got steeper until it got impossible to ride the bike in the incline even with the chain on the 10^th sprocket. So we dismounted and walked (in the dark). After an hour more of walking-biking, we reached the DENR office at 7PM where we were met by Mr. Roy who has been waiting for us.

I have coordinated earlier with the office of the DENR Protected Area Superintendent (PASu) since Mt. Pulag is a popular mountaineering destination and usually gets crowded during weekends, holidays and in the summer months. Mr. Roy is familiar with our itinerary and has even arranged for our accommodation. He recommended a house within the Benguet State University Bokod satellite campus which is used by transients. This is a recommended lodging arrangement for only P 125 per person for a two-bedroom house with kitchen and bathroom. The elevation of DENR office is 1,375 meters. Reference to elevation will be a recurring part of this blog since an MTB ride in the Cordilleras is more about elevation gain/loss than distance.     

Bokod-Ambuklao junction, 8 km to the DENR office, about 50 km to Baguio City

Ed doing the laundry, a must for everyone on the trip

We cooked and ate dinner, did our laundry, had a few shots of brandy and had a very good night sleep. Distance covered for the day: 66 km. Estimated elevation gain: 2,235 meters.

Day 2, DENR Office to Mt. Pulag Camping Ground, March 25

A visit to Mt. Pulag starts with an orientation at the PASu Office of the DENR (which is just adjacent to the BSU Bokod campus). After Mr. Roy’s orientation, we paid the fees and bought supplies from the local stores near DENR office. We also arranged for a motorcycle to haul the camping equipment and supplies up to the Ranger Station (which would prove to be a good decision). We started the ascent to the Ranger Station, 10.7 km away and 1,050 meters up, at 9AM.

The Bokod-Ambangeg Trail/Road is 90% “unbikable” going up. We were walking and pushing the bike most of the time. The road is mostly unpaved but concreted in critical parts. There are road sections with slope of 40% and the ascent was relentless. But the unfolding panorama of the Cordilleras was, of course, breathtaking.     

The nth rest stop

Unbikable sections

Bikable sections

After many rest stops, snacks stops, picture stops, piss stops, a lunch stop, text stops and other stops, we arrived at the Babadak Ranger Station at 2:30PM. We arranged for a guide, a porter, packed for the trekking leg, and parked our bikes inside the Ranger Station for safekeeping. I also retrieved our rented tents which I had reserved earlier thru the DENR office. To save on weight, I have opted to rent instead of bringing tents (which was a bad decision).

Off we trekked from Babadak at around 3:30PM, passed the highest vegetable farms in the country, past the mossy forest of Mt. Pulag and reached the camping ground at the grasslands at 5:45PM. We pitched camp, cooked dinner, ate and retired for the night.

Most of the porters in Mt. Pulag are women

Into the mossy forest

Abner (in white shirt), our guide

Adobo and rice at 2,695 meters above sea level

Kareen and I had very little sleep because of the cold. The rented tent is in bad condition and a zipper is busted which allowed the circulation of cold and wet air inside the tent. Lesson learned: bring your own lightweight and compact tent. Hypothermia is a real danger in Mt. Pulag where temperature can plummet to single digits C at night even during summer months. One must have experience in basic mountaineering before climbing Mt. Pulag.

Day 3, Mt. Pulag, then to Kabayan, Benguet, March 26

This is the longest, most exhilarating and most exhausting day of the whole trip.

We started at 4AM, trekking in the dark in a surreal grassland landscape lighted only by our headlamps, and arrived at the summit at 5:45AM just in time for the famed Mt. Pulag sunrise above the clouds. Mt. Pulag is the third highest mountain in the Philippines at 2,922 meters ASL.

Picture perfect Mt. Pulag sunrise

Above the clouds

We chanced upon Boboy (at right), co-founder of UP Mountaineers, and Ed posed with his co-seniors

After an hour at the summit, we started the descent to the camp. Breakfast, break camp and then started the 2-hour trek to Babadak at 9AM. 

Kareen cooking breakfast

Noel (UPM'91), Kareen, Tyrone and Ed in the trekking mode

Transition into biking mode

At Babadak, we had our lunch, re-packed and prepared for an EXTREME downhill ride.

Since we were headed to Kabayan, we decided to try the Bashoy-Babadak trail/road. In my opinion, this is one of the most extreme downhill ride in the Philippines. The road is mostly gravel surface (very difficult) and the few concreted portion is a two 0.25 meter wide strip for 4-wheel vehicle. The cliffs at the roadsides are frightening. It was a hot day and there are no trees along the road (only vegetable gardens all the way down). It was a scenic route but we have to concentrate on the road. The elevation dropped 1,370 meters in 9 km. This downhill ride was most difficult for Kareen for she was using mechanical V-brakes while we had pneumatic disc brakes.

  

The downhill road met up with the Bokod-Kabayan-Buguias Road near the Agno River. From there, the road (mostly earth surface) undulates as it followed the course of the Agno River due north. We reached Kabayan at around 6PM very exhausted and drained. Laspag! Dinner at a carinderia and headed straight to bed. Distance travelled by bike is 19.5 km for the day.

Pinecone Lodge, Kabayan, Benguet, very clean, affordable, highly recommended

Day 4, Kabayan to Mt. Data, Bauko, Mt. Province, March 27

I am from the lowlands and my impression of Kabayan is that of an idyllic small Cordillera town. To the east is the towering ridge of Akiki Trail to Mt. Pulag and to the west is the gorge of Agno River with rice terraces on the slopes. Pine trees, crisp mountain air, constantly changing landscape, soft murmur of rivers, minimal traffic – an MTBiker’s paradise.

We started out from Kabayan (1,185 meters elevation) at 7AM, going slowly up north to the headwaters of Agno River. The road is a mix of gravel and cement and under construction. Kabayan to Buguias town proper is just 20 km away but it took us more than 5 hours. We had a lunch of chicken at a small carinderia in Buguias. The town proper is very small compared to Barangay Loo up north and Barangay Abatan at the Halsema Highway.

My bike, Giant XTC frame, Suntour Epicon X2 fork and Deore group set, with a 25 liter backpack.

Mostly gravel road to Buguias, going up

and up

Having trouble with my rear brakes

At Barangay Loo is a wide plateau that is cultivated to vegetables and other crops. After this barangay, the road goes into a steep climb to Abatan and joins the Halsema Highway. Abatan is an urbanized barangay due to its proximity to the Halsema Highway. It is also the main vegetable trading post in the area. Along the Halsema Highway are business establishments and vegetable farms. From Abatan, the road is downhill for a few kilometers and then goes on a long uphill again going to Mt. Data, Bauko, Mt. Province

Very extensive vegetable gardens at Barangay Loo, Buguias

Into Bauko, Mt, Province, still going up

It was our plan to reach Bontoc this day, but exhausted from the demanding terrain and nearing dusk, we opted to stay at Mt. Data Hotel (2,230 meters ASL). We usually stick to a backpacker or shoestring tourist budget during extended bike trips. The room rates of Mount Data are not for backpackers, but the accommodation and food is worth the money. You have to pay extra for heated rooms. Distance covered for the day is 45 km.

Day 5, Mt. Data, Bauko to Sagada, Mt. Province, March 28, Holy Thursday

Departed Mt. Data at 6:30AM. The section of Halsema Highway from Mt. Data to Sagada junction is downhill on a well-maintained concreted road - the most pleasant biking portion of the trip. The scenery on the cool morning easy downhill ride was amazing! After a few kilometers, we had a glimpse of the Chico River gorges on the right hand side of the road.

The Hulk at a roadside gas station-diner along Halsema Highway

Bikes fully loaded, bikers off for breakfast

We had breakfast at a small canteen at Sabangan near the junction of Halsema Highway and the Tagudin-Cervantes Road. There we also met the co-owner of Sagada Resthouse by chance and so we had a reservation for a lodging house in Sagada. After 40 km of downhill ride, we reached the junction of the Staunton Road to Sagada. Ahead is a 12 km ride with an elevation gain of about 600 meters.

Slowly, patiently we climbed the scenic Staunton Road and by 2:30 PM reached Sagada.

Day 6, Sagada, March 29, Holy Friday

Sagada, even during the peak of the peak tourist season, is very enchanting. We arranged for a guide (named Don, with an eternal tear in his eyes – tattooed) and headed for the church for a prayer. The day was spent in Sumaging Cave (very crowded), a visit to the hanging coffins, echo valley and of course souvenir shops.

Day 7, Sagada to Bontoc, March 30, Saturday and to Baguio City, Manila and to Sorsogon     

The plan was to ride a bus from Sagada to Baguio City but vehicular and pedestrian traffic and the sheer number of passengers waiting for the same bus made us change our mind. So instead we mounted our bikes again and biked downhill to Bontoc for a bus ride. Thus ended the bike leg of our trip with a total distance of only 203 km. I lost count of the elevation gain/loss.

The bus left Bontoc 10:30AM and we arrived at Baguio City at 3PM where we stayed overnight. Sunday early next morning, we lined up at the Victory Liner bus terminal as chance passengers, rode a bus to Manila by mid-morning, arrived at Cubao by late afternoon, proceeded to the Ali Mall bus terminal, and rode a bus to Bicol for another 12 hours of ass-busting ride.

Here is the route map (reconstructed using Google Earth):

By Noel Mercado II